SINGAPORE CLIMBING:
The following information is taken from the old website of Singapore's First Everest Expedition. For more and dated information please refer to David Lim's website http://ww.mountain.com.sg
The Climbing Web-site
Please note that climbing is inherently a risk sport and persons participating in it do so at their own risk. This guide is in no way a guarantee that the routes described are free from dangers such as rock-fall, etc. Get proper instruction if you are going into this sport. If in doubt, check the qualifications of your instructor with the Singapore Mountaineering Federation - they keep a register of qualified instructors. Call 3714184 to check. Those responsible for this website cannot be held liable for your actions or damages incurred as a result of climbing.
Singapore has primarily two abandoned granite quarries where rock-climbing is done.
The National Parks Board, have allowed access for climbers again to Hindhede Quarry. Conditions of access are dependent on an access card. This card is available for a fee of $10 and can only be applied for by members of clubs affiliated to The Singapore Mountaineering Federation. We expect these cards, the indemnity forms that need to be signed etc to be ready just after Christmas and wil be allocated on a per club basis ie contact your club representative.Terms of agreement include adherence to NPArks rules, The NParks Act, certain specific non-nos where climbing is concerned and restricted access times during weekends. You can get in an certain times etc and not freely.
This access is a hard-won victory for climbers. However, despite warnings not to jeopardise the negotiations and for their own legal protection, several climbers have climbed inside the quarry. Those caught recently aggravated the situation and were questioned by the rangers and police. These climbers will be banned for a period yet to be specified.
For more information, please call David ( 7401042 )
The nature of the rock is such that most of the granite is smoother than naturally weathered rock and there are some sections of loose rock. Check with local climbers who are familiar with a route before attempting it. Most trade routes have been cleared of the most obvious loose rock. Most of the climbs are bolted and are face climbs although some of the best climbs are crack climbs.
Local ethics: Owing to the preponderance of sport climbers, the expense of racks, dodgy pro on some climbs, bolting is common. However, some climbs which were previously freed on-sight some years ago are now experiencing retro-bolting - abhorred by some climbers. Top-roping, hangdogging and other 'sport' climbing styles are common as Singapore has yet to develop its own climbing culture. If in doubt, please ask or else get your bolts chopped.
DAIRY FARM QUARRY:
From the city, catch buses like 182, 170, 171 that go north along Dunearn and then Bukit Timah roads. From the Orchard Road area, a bus will take about 45 minutes. Get off just after Hillview Avenue and make a left turn ( cross the dual-carriageway ) into Dairy Farm Road. At the junction, you will notice a condominium ( Dairy Farm Condos ). 30 metres into the road, turn right into a rough but metalled road . Walk, drive or bike about 200 metres until you hit some gates ( sometimes open ). Follow the laterite track into a grassy field. The routes are on three side of this field. Most climbers climb Saturday afternoons and all day Sunday ( More common ). No amenities, so please get your suncream, water (lots ) etc.
ROUTES:
As you enter the quarry from the metal gates and looking at the horseshoe shaped quarry, the routes are ( using the Yosemite Decimal Scale to measure technical difficulty ):
KEY:
AB= anchor bolts
b= bolts
b+p = some pro needed
f = completely free
R = some risk in some parts eg run out, loose rock
White Spider, 5.10b/c, b+p, AB, crack/roof
Boring and Meaningless, 5.9, b, AB, face
Jaws, 5.6, f, AB, chimney
Acrophobia, 5.9, b, AB, face
Desperado, 5.6, f, AB, crack
Tales of Power, b, AB, face
Chicken Out, 5.9, b+p, AB, overhang/face
Decade of Decadence, 5.12b, b, AB, overhang
And Justice For All, 5.8R, f, AB, crack
Direct, 5.7, b+p, AB, crack
Jam Bang, 5.8, f, AB, crack
Dihedral, 5.7,f, AB, corner
Ultimate Doom ( two variations ) 5.8R/5.10, b+p, AB, face/crack
Razor's Edge, 5.7,f, tree abseil, crack
Dragon Shit, 5.9,f, tree abseil, crack
These are routes below are at the back of the quarry ( to the left and around the corner from the Ultimate Doom/Razor's Edge wall ) Most are out of condition owing to the moss and vegetation which regained its grip on this slabby section. Some new projects are opening up this area up again.
Turtle, 5.8/5.9, b+p, AB, face
Beginner's Luck, 5.5, f, tree abseil, possibly AB, slab
Sheer Bliss, 5.7R, f, tree abseil, slab
No Margin For Error, 5.6, f, AB, slab/off-width
Art Of Noise, 5.5, f, tree abseil, slab
Below are climbs on the Nose, the distinct feature on the right when you are in the middle of the field:
The Nose ( 2 pitches ):
1st pitch = First Blood , 5.10b, R, f, AB, crack
or
The Ramp, 5.7R, f, AB, slab
2nd pitch = 5.9/5.10a, f, AB, crack
Both of the first pitches share same belay ledge .
Mega-hangdogging, 5.12b, b+p, AB, roof / off-width ( never been repeated after it was on-sighted free by Tony Yaniro in 1990 ) This route is rarely attempted and starts at the bottom of the nose like all the other first pitches.
From the end of any of the first pitches you can also climb:
Allarete, 5.10a, b+p, AB, face
The Nose offers the longest and the most classic climbs in Singapore.A basic rack with selection of nuts, cams and hexes will be sufficient.A single rope is OK, but with the long rappel the 2nd pitch of the Nose would be quicker with two ropes. The usual practice is for the seconder to trail an 11mm rope.
HINDHEDE QUARRY:
Currently closed by the National Parks for redevelopment, Hindhede Quarry contains some of the best clean-surface rock-climbing and huge aid-route potential. It is located at the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. Same approach as Dairy Farm Quarry, but if by bus, get off at the bus-stop at Courts furniture warehouse. About 40 minutes from the city ( a few km closer than Dairy Farm ) using the same buses as described. From this place, you will notice a high hill with an orange-red granite face. This is the upper part of the quarry. The hill is topped by a 10 storey Telecoms building and has two enormous red and white radio transmitter towers. Cross the road by the pedestrian bridge. Walk into Hindhede Road until ( 5 minutes ) you hit the wooden building ( the Ranger Station ). Parking, drinks and toilets available here.
If you are coming by taxi, tell the driver to head for the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve - they won't know what Hindhede Quarry is all about. Fares are about $10 from Orchard Road ( it's metered anyway! ). The Nature Reserve itself is an interesting place with well-marked trails. The Ranger Station has an exhibit hall worth a look. From the car-park, there is a worn track up a short grassy slope. Head up this and bear right. The quarry entrance is a minute's walk away. The entrance is currently boarded up and entrance is allowed only to card carrying members of SMF-affiliate clubs. There is the start of a mountain bike trail at the gravel car park . It leads to Dairy Farm Quarry and beyond.
Rising water levels of a large quarry lake decimated old climbs like Singapore Sling 5.8, HongBao 5.10a, Try Hard 5.9, Snakes and Ladders 5.5. The water level is rising at about four metres a year. The quarry still has more than a dozen popular climbs including the test-piece Chasing the Dragon 5.11c. Classics here are Spaghetti Bolognaise 5.9 , Spermhead 5.10a and Nursery Rhyme 5.5/5.8.
Climbs described sequentially as you enter the quarry and descend into the pit:
New Year's Day, 5.9, b, AB, face
Wall of Voodoo, 5.10a, b, AB, face
Grand Illusion, 5.12a, b, AB, face
Nursery Rhyme, 5.5 / 5.8, b+p, AB, crack/slab
Virgin Layback, 5.7, f, AB, crack
Fat Chance, 5.6, f, AB. crack
( bolted variation climb between FC and VL )
Drowning Man, 5.9, b, AB, face
Body Nazi, 5.11d, b, AB, face/overhang
Spermhead, 5.10b, b, AB, face
Chasing the Dragon, 5.11c, b, AB, face
Climbs on the far side of the quarry - Spaghetti Wall:
Kama Sutra, 5.10c, b+p, AB, overhang
Brain Damage, 5.10a/b, b, AB, face
Spaghetti Bolognaise, 5.9, b, AB, slab/crack/face
Either or Either, 5.9, b, AB, corner
Char Kway Teow, 5.9R, f, AB, crack
There are also a few projects in the pipeline which were suspended when the quarry was closed. Please do not attempt to access the quarry unless you have the requisite indemnity forms and ID requirements completed ( the SMF is still putting the details together ) For more details, contact Mr Rasip Isnin ( SMF ), tel 3714184.
Last updated 20 Nov 1997 © David Lim 1996. All rights rights reserved.
